Exploring the Basics - Machine Appliqué

Let's talk applique.  Yes, the dreaded "A" word!  But not to worry - it can be fast and easy - by machine!  (Oh - and did you check out our new series, A Quilter's Alphabet?  We defined appliqué last week!  You can find my post - and a link to Kate's here.)

Let's revisit our definition first:

Machine Applique:

Remember that basic definition of appliqué?  To fasten a cutout to another piece of fabric?  Well, machine applique is fastening that cutout, decoration, or motif by machine.  This can be done with a straight stitch or with a decorative or overcast stitch in matching or coordinating thread.

Ok, so that doesn't sound so bad, right?  We are attaching our appliqué shapes or motifs using our sewing machine. Whew!  Already you feel a bit better, don't you?  

And when you think about it, doing it by machine means you have tremendous flexibility - thread, thread color, thread weight, stitch length, stitch width and even stitch type!  Think about it - with machine applique (most techniques) the stitches show.  So....thread is a HUGE consideration.

My personal favorite style of machine appliqué is a simple, clean edge stitch, and I use it all.the.time!  Since thread is a major player in this technique, we need to discuss thread.  

Let's look at a few examples of different weights and types of thread (all Aurifil, of course!) and how it looks in machine appliqué - with the edge stitch, of course!

Wool Thread for Machine Appliqué

Why, yes, you CAN use wool thread in your machine!  As with the 12 weight, just loosen your thread tension (you may need to play around with this just a bit to get the right tension).  It is IMPORTANT to loosen the top tension so that you don’t shred this looser twist thread.  And yes, you’ll again need a larger eye needle, again to reduce stress on the thread. 

I also skip the last guide when threading my machine (you know that little guide right before threading the needle? – that one.  Skip it – let your thread go directly from the take up hook into the needle.  Really.)  As with other heavier threads, use a matching 40wt cotton thread in your bobbin.

Wool thread may not look like you expect it to.  If you go slow and even with your stitches, it will provide a lovely, smooth stitch that has a bit more texture than your cotton threads.  You might think, based on its fuzzy texture on the spool, that you would have a line of fuzzy stitches, but that’s not the case.  Personally, I find it shines best with longer, larger stitches.

12 Weight for Machine Applique

I love the heavy look of 12 weight, done as a simple straight stitch, along the edge of fused applique motifs.  It looks stunning on all fabrics, and is heavy enough to hold its own, whether in a contrasting color or in a coordinating color.

For Geraniums (above), just two colors of thread (a springy green and a deep pink) add just the right amount of definition to the raw edge, fused appliqué.

In this table runner (below), coordinating 12 wt thread provide texture without any additional color to keep the lines clean and simple.

When working with 12 weight, there are a few things you’ll want to do for best results:

• Loosen your top thread tension to reduce drag on your thread
• Use a heavier needle with a larger eye opening (I like 100/16 sharp)
• Use a matching 50 wt thread in the bobbin
• GO SLOW. Not kidding.  If you stitch at your regular speed, you may encounter skipped stitches. Yuck!

28 wt for Machine Applique

For me, 28 weight is the perfect balance between a heavy statement (12 wt) and a whisper (50wt).  Again, you’ll want to loosen your top tension, use a heavier needle, and use a matching 50wt in the bobbin. 

Don’t be afraid to mix cotton thread with wool applique.  The look is AMAZING!  And I adore how the Aurifil colors are PEFECTION on a stick when matching to the wool.  The simple edge stitching in 28 wt adds definition to the shapes within the appliques on the coasters from Olive You (above), providing a crisp clean look.

Some final tips when working with these awesome heavier threads and machine appliqué:

• Lengthen your stitch length.
  • A note on this – make a sample piece to practice on. Try different stitch lengths (and widths if doing an overcast/wide stitch) to see what will look best with your particular project. 

• I have found that simpler stitches work best with this thread. And when I’m working with layered pieces, I find that I have to continue to lengthen my stitch as I add layers in order to achieve the same stitch length. 

• Remember that stitch length will be “sucked up” by the thickness of the added layers of fabric, wool, or flannel.
  • In the examples above and below (the pink detail on the butterfly wing and the additional layers on the flower and leaves in the border appliqué), I had to INCREASE my stitch length with each subsequent layer to keep the stitch length appearance the same.

• Build your appliqué from the bottom up.  This will reduce the amount of starts and stops you'll have when stitching.  
  • In the butterfly wing example above, I first stitched the white wing down.  Then I added the gold wing, and then finally the pink accent piece.

Again, a practice piece will save you every time.  Try out stitch lengths AND the needle placement on the practice piece and write it down (I keep a post it note on my machine when working with applique pieces so I can be consistent throughout the entire construction of the project).  For example, I like a fairly “close to the edge” stitch, and depending up on the project, usually find that a needle placement of 6.0 to 6.5 works best, along with a stitch length of 3.0 to 4.5.  Thank goodness for post it notes!

 

Create your own signature looks in your projects by using different weight threads, or even mixing different weight threads, to give your work of art more color and texture.  Remember that there isn’t really a wrong choice – it is YOUR project and YOUR creation.  Have fun with it.

Feeling a bit better about machine applique?  Great!  Come back on October 11th for details on how to get a FREE (yes, I said FREE) machine appliqué pattern.  It is my Georgia Block for the USA Block Hop!  See you then!

Head over to Kate's blog to get some additional tips and ideas on fusible appliqué.

Like what you see here, and want to hear more from Tamarinis?

Like me on Facebook, follow me on Instagram, and sign up for my newsletter at www.tamarinis.com!  PS - I'm trying to get to the next milestone number on Facebook and Instagram (I am trying to get 2000+ followers) and would REALLY appreciate your help - so please click and follow!  Thanks so much!

Following is one way to demonstrate your interest in my projects, patterns, and partnerships.  Your comments are also GREATLY appreciated, and provide valuable feedback regarding what inspires you, as well as what you'd like to see explored in future posts.  

And did you know?  I travel and teach!  Contact me to schedule a trunk show and/or workshop!