Tamarinis

A Quilter's Alphabet: Y and Z Terms

Y Seams

The dreaded "y" seam - but what is it, and why do some quilters shy away from it.  Well, it is pretty much like it sounds.  Seams from joining units come together in a "Y" formation.  So you have three units coming together to form a "Y".  When working with a Y seam, you need to start/stop 1/4" away from the "Y" intersection to allow for the other seam to join in.  Approach this much like you do a mitered border (starting/stopping 1/4" from the edge) and take your time.  If you are tackling a Y seam for the first time, I recommend making your first stitches using a basting length stitch so that it will be easier to make any necessary adjustment.

 

Zig Zag Stitch

A zig zag stitch is a stitch that goes back and forth from side to side in a zig zag formation.  The width of the stitch (how wide the stitch is), as well as the length (how close or far apart the zig zags are) can be changed to suit the project.  This stitch is often used in machine applique, as it will not only secure the applique motif to the base fabric, but the width of the stitch can be used to cover the raw edge of the applique.

 

Head over to Kate's blog to get her insights on more "Y"  and "Z" quilting terms!

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A Quilter's Alphabet: W Quilting Terms

Width of Fabric

Width of Fabric or WOF refers to the measurement of fabric from selvedge edge to selvedge edge.  The actual width can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.  Many designers will assume a width of 40", but that too can vary.  Read the pattern carefully and measure your fabric to see how much fabric you have to work with.  Remember that you do NOT want to use the selvedge itself in your measurement or in your projects, as the selvedge is often more tightly woven and can result in puckered seams.

 

Wrong Sides Together

Wrong sides together or WST refers to the placement of fabric when working with it.  While most piecing is done with Right Sides Together (RST), you may be asked to place fabrics WST when cutting fabric or tracing applique shapes.  When working with binding strips, you will fold binding strips WST and press prior to stitching to your quilted project.

 

Head over to Kate's blog to get her insights on more "W" quilting terms!

Like what you see here, and want to hear more from Tamarinis?

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Following is one way to demonstrate your interest in my projects, patterns, and partnerships.  Your comments are also GREATLY appreciated, and provide valuable feedback regarding what inspires you, as well as what you'd like to see explored in future posts.

 

A Quilter's Alphabet: T Terms

Tension

Tension is the stress or force on the top (needle) thread and the bobbin thread.  Perfect tension is a balance between the two threads, with neither being dominant.  So many factors can affect tension: proper needle size and type, appropriate weight and type of thread for the project, stitch length in conjunction with fabric type and/or thickness, and of course the condition of the sewing machine (when did you last have YOUR machine serviced?).

 

Thread

Thread is so much more than just a color.  Weight is an important factor, and matching the correct thread weight to the correct needle size AND project will yield the best results.  With thread, the larger the number, the finer the thread.

80wt is a very fine thread and favored by hand stitchers for English Paper Piecing and applique.  50wt is most commonly used for piecing, but can be used for quilting as well.  40wt is slightly heavier and is a go-to weight for machine quilting.  28wt is heavier, and makes a terrific quilting thread or for machine or hand embellishment.  12wt is a heavy thread, but can still be used on the machine and works wonderfully for hand or machine quilting or embellishment.

 

Thread Count

Thread count refers to the number of threads used in the weave (warp and weft) of a particular fabric.  The lower the thread count, the looser the weave.  The higher the thread count, the more dense the weave of the fabric.

 

Trimming

Trimming is...well, trimming down or removing the excess on a quilt block or a quilt.  One approach popular with many quilters is to make a block slightly oversized and then to trim, or cut it down, to the proper size.

 

Head over to Kate's blog to get her insights on more "T" quilting terms!

Like what you see here, and want to hear more from Tamarinis?

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Following is one way to demonstrate your interest in my projects, patterns, and partnerships.  Your comments are also GREATLY appreciated, and provide valuable feedback regarding what inspires you, as well as what you'd like to see explored in future posts.

 

 

A Quilter's Alphabet: S Terms

Sampler Quilt

A sampler quilt is made up of different blocks, often with each block being different.  The fabrics can be repeated among the blocks, or each block can be made up of different fabrics.  Making a sampler quilt exposes the quilter to a variety of piecing styles, techniques or blocks.

Scrap Quilt

Leftover fabric from other quilts and projects, as well as new fabrics, are used in scrap quilts.  Each patch can be made up of different fabrics, or a fixed number of fabrics can be used.

Scrim

Scrim is a thin mesh stabilizer that is needle-punched into batting to make it more stable and durable.  Batting with scrim can usually be quilted further apart, as the batting won't separate when the quilt is washed.

Selvedge

Selvedge refers to the finished edge on fabric that appears at both ends of the fabric.  It is denser and more tightly woven and prevents the fabric from fraying.  With many print fabrics, the name of the fabric line, the designer, the fabric company and the colors used in the print may be printed along the selvedge.  With batiks, the selvedge does not contain any printing, and is much narrower.  It is generally recommended that the selvedge NOT be included in any piecing.

Setting the Seam

Once a seam is sewn, setting the seam will enable more accurate and flat pressing.  To set a seam, run the iron over the newly stitched seam BEFORE opening up the seam or pressing to one side.  Setting the seam helps the threads sink into the fabric.

Straight of Grain

Woven fabric is made up of a warp and a weft.  The weft threads run over and under the warp threads, creating the lengthwise and crosswise threads.  Lengthwise threads run along or parallel to the selvedge and has the least amount of stretch.  Crosswise threads run up and down from selvedge to selvedge and has slightly more stretch.

Steam

Adding water to your iron will allow you to use steam when pressing.  Some quilters prefer to not use steam, while others favor pressing with steam.  If too much steam or too much pressure is used, the fabric or seams can be distorted.

Strip

A strip is a length of fabric cut selvedge to selvedge and can be of any width.

Strip Piecing

Strip piecing is when two or more strips are sewn together and then cut into smaller segments.

 

Head over to Kate's blog to get her insights on more "S" quilting terms!

Like what you see here, and want to hear more from Tamarinis?

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Following is one way to demonstrate your interest in my projects, patterns, and partnerships.  Your comments are also GREATLY appreciated, and provide valuable feedback regarding what inspires you, as well as what you'd like to see explored in future posts.

 

A Quilter's Alphabet: R Terms

Right Sides Together:

Right sides together refers to fabric placement for piecing.  The "right side" of the fabric is the printed side of the fabric.  It is almost always the most vibrant, the most colorful, and has the clearest impression or printing of the motifs or designs.

You want to place fabrics right side together when sewing so that when stitched and pressed, the seam is on the WRONG side.

 

Rulers:

Rotary cutters require mats and rotary rulers to cut fabric accurately.  Don't confuse rulers with rotary templates and tools.

Templates for use with rotary cutters are usually made from the same thicker acrylic but have specific shapes (circles, hexagons, leaves) and usually are only for a single size.

Tools, such as those from the fabo folks at Studio 180, look SIMILAR to rulers, but they are not for cutting strips and squares, but instead for trimming down shapes and blocks to the appropriate size.  While they often have lines (just like rulers do!), this separates them from templates because those lines enable the tool to be used to create multiple sizes of the same block.

Rulers come in multiple sizes and shapes, most frequently rectangles (long, for cutting strips) and square (for cutting - oh wait! - squares) and trimming blocks.  Rulers will have lines, usually at the 1", 1/4" and sometimes at the 1/8" points.

What's your favorite ruler?  

Head over to Kate's blog to get her insights on more "R" quilting terms!

Like what you see here, and want to hear more from Tamarinis?

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Following is one way to demonstrate your interest in my projects, patterns, and partnerships.  Your comments are also GREATLY appreciated, and provide valuable feedback regarding what inspires you, as well as what you'd like to see explored in future posts.

A Quilter's Alphabet - Q Terms

Quarter Inch Foot:

A quarter inch foot is a sewing machine foot that creates a stitch that is 1/4" inch from the raw edge of the fabric when the raw edge of the fabric is placed along the outside edge and the needle is positioned in the default or center position.  This makes it easy and consistent when piecing and increases the accuracy of your 1/4" foot.  Note:  quarter inch feet vary in appearance based on brand of sewing machine and of foot.

 

Quilt as You Go:

Quilt as you go is the process of quilting as you are piecing or assembling your quilt.  You will stitch through the block pieces, batting and backing.  Sometimes it is done with sashing when putting blocks together.  This is a popular method because two tasks are accomplished at one time (block or quilt assembly AND quilting).

 

Quilt Math

Yes - there is math in quilting!  Strip or piece size, unfinished block size, finished block size, backing size, batting size, seam allowance....you get the idea.

Where quilting math comes in most frequently is in computing the unfinished versus the finished block or unit size.

Let's look at the nine patch diagram above.  If each of our strips (pink/lime/pink, lime/pink/lime and pink/lime/pink) are each 2 1/2" WIDE and 6 1/2" high (from raw edge to raw edge), what size is the stitched nine patch block?  At first glance, you might think 2 1/2" + 2 1/2" + 2 1/2" = 7 1/2".  But let's NOT forget about the 1/4" seam allowance.  You will LOSE 1/4" from EACH piece at each seam.  So you are really adding 2 1/4" (because you only lose 1/4" from the first pink/lime/pink), 2" (because you lose 1/4" from both sides of the lime/pink/lime) and 2 1/4" for the last pink/lime/pink (because again you lose 1/4" from ONE side of the strip).  Which means....your nine patch block is 6 1/2" wide, 6 1/2" tall, unfinished.

Unfinished size = raw edge to raw edge.  Finished size = size once sewn into a quilt.  With the finished size, you subtract 1/4" from EACH raw edge.  So our nine patch above is 6 1/2" square unfinished, 6" finished.

Don't stress!  Most patterns give you all the math you need.  But it is great to know the math of quilting so you can double check your piecing as you go!

 

Head over to Kate's blog to get her insights on more "Q" quilting terms!

Like what you see here, and want to hear more from Tamarinis?

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Following is one way to demonstrate your interest in my projects, patterns, and partnerships.  Your comments are also GREATLY appreciated, and provide valuable feedback regarding what inspires you, as well as what you'd like to see explored in future posts.  

A Quilter's Alphabet - O

 

Opposing Seams

You may have hear "press to the dark".  So let's imagine a four patch block - like the one above.  If you pieced with a light and a dark square, and pressed to the dark, then when you sew the two sections together, you will have opposing seams.

The term opposing seams refers to the direction the seams are pressed when two or more units are joined.  This is an important element to not only help your seams "nest" or match, but to also reduce bulk and help your block lay flatter.  (Yes you can press seams open, but that's another topic!).

 

Overcast Stitch

An overcast stitch is a stitch that goes across the seam line or the raw edge of the fabric.  In the above image, the overcast stitch shown is a blanket stitch, which follows the raw edge of the applique and is also on top of the appliqued shape.  It is often used as an embellishment and/or to secure applique shapes.

Overcast stitches can also cross over from the applique shape and the background.  Satin stitch and zig zag stitch are two more examples of an overcast stitch.

 

Visit Kate's blog to get her definition of on point setting and one patch quilts.

Like what you see here, and want to hear more from Tamarinis?

Like me on Facebook, follow me on Instagram, and sign up for my newsletter at www.tamarinis.com!  PS - I'm trying to get to the next milestone number on Facebook and Instagram (I am trying to get 2000+ followers) and would REALLY appreciate your help - so please click and follow!  Thanks so much!

Following is one way to demonstrate your interest in my projects, patterns, and partnerships.  Your comments are also GREATLY appreciated, and provide valuable feedback regarding what inspires you, as well as what you'd like to see explored in future posts.  

And did you know?  I travel and teach!  Contact me to schedule a trunk show and/or workshop!

 

 

A Quilter's Alphabet - N

 

Needles

Needles can be broken down into two main categories: hand needles and machine needles.

Hand needles have an eye (the opening that the thread goes through), a shank (the body of the needle) and a point (seems obvious, but depending upon the type of needle this point can be thin and sharp or thick and blunt, or anything in between).  The size and length of the needle varies based on its purpose.  A common needle for many quilters is a between, a fairly short, sharp, sturdy needle used to do hand quilting.

Machine needles, much like hand needles, vary in size (sharpness of point and thickness of shaft).  The finer or thinner the needle, the more delicate the fabric it will be used on.   Machine needles are sized by number - the larger the number, the heavier the needle.  

Many quilters will use a heavy needle (90/14 or 100/16) to machine quilt their projects.  This heavier needle holds up to the stress of stitching through three layers (quilt top, batting and backing) without breaking.

Machine needles are also identified by the point (sharp, universal or ball).  Sharps are used for woven fabrics, universals can be used for wovens or knits, and ball point needles are for use with knit fabrics.

 

Notions

Notions are essential your aids to sewing and piecing.  Yes, it is a broad category depending upon your perspective on what helps you with your project.  It can include:

• • • scissors
    • pins
    • seam ripper
    • zippers
    • needles
    • pins
    • thread
    • stiletto
    • rotary cutter
    • rotary ruler
    • cutting mat

Visit Kate's blog to get her definition of negative space and nesting.

Like what you see here, and want to hear more from Tamarinis?

Like me on Facebook, follow me on Instagram, and sign up for my newsletter at www.tamarinis.com!  PS - I'm trying to get to the next milestone number on Facebook and Instagram (I am trying to get 2000+ followers) and would REALLY appreciate your help - so please click and follow!  Thanks so much!

Following is one way to demonstrate your interest in my projects, patterns, and partnerships.  Your comments are also GREATLY appreciated, and provide valuable feedback regarding what inspires you, as well as what you'd like to see explored in future posts.  

And did you know?  I travel and teach!  Contact me to schedule a trunk show and/or workshop!

A Quilter's Alphabet - M

Mat - 

A self-healing mat is a necessary addition to any quilter's sewing area, especially when using a rotary cutter and rotary ruler.  Self-healing is a somewhat misleading term, as the mats will eventually wear out, but a quality mat IS resistant to developing cut grooves or ruts.

Mats come in a variety of sizes, from small trimming mats to large 24" x 36" mats (and some manufacturers have even larger sizes!).  Most mats are double sided, and have a handy measurement grid, making them dual purpose: a cutting surface and a handy measuring guide for cutting larger squares and strips.

Some folks favor the rotating mat, which is handy when cutting around templates or trimming up HSTs!

My favorite mat?  I have found the Olfa mats to hold up well.  See the bottom of this post for a link to two favorites - the traditional green Olfa mat, and a super pretty dark blue one! (yes, there are affiliate links at the bottom, which means if you click on them to purchase a mat, I get a small fee but it does NOT increase your costs at all - and I use it to help fund the maintenance of this blog and website)

Miter

A miter is an angled, fitted piecing, most commonly used in borders (but not always!), and usually a 45 degree angle.  While a mitered border is a BIT more work than a blunt ended border, it can add a polished look to a quilt, and is very impactful when using stripes or border print fabrics.  Framework, above, has a mitered border to make the most of that lovely large scale floral print.

Hesitant to tackle a mitered border?  I have an easy little tutorial on my website for mitered borders.  Try it with a small project first.  Like most skills, practice will make it easier.

 

Visit Kate's blog to get her definition of measure and meander.

Like what you see here, and want to hear more from Tamarinis?

Like me on Facebook, follow me on Instagram, and sign up for my newsletter at www.tamarinis.com!  PS - I'm trying to get to the next milestone number on Facebook and Instagram (I am trying to get 2000+ followers) and would REALLY appreciate your help - so please click and follow!  Thanks so much!

Following is one way to demonstrate your interest in my projects, patterns, and partnerships.  Your comments are also GREATLY appreciated, and provide valuable feedback regarding what inspires you, as well as what you'd like to see explored in future posts.  

And did you know?  I travel and teach!  Contact me to schedule a trunk show and/or workshop!

 

 

 

A Quilter's Alphabet - L

Leaders and Enders - 

That's a quilting term?  Yes, dear quilty pal, it is.  A leader/ender is a piece of fabric used to begin and/or end a line of stitching.  They are called leaders and enders because - well - they lead or begin the stitching and end the stitching.  

Many quilters like to use leaders and enders to prevent their thread from "nesting" or knotting up underneath their fabric or to help create a nice, smooth stitch line at the beginning and ending of piecing.

Some clever multi-taskers will sew squares together as their leaders and enders, essentially stitching up four patches with each seam.  Before you know it, you'll have a stack of four patches that can be sewn into a quilt!

Light Box - 

A light box provides a lighted surface to trace templates, applique shapes, or align fabrics for paper piecing.  Originally, light boxes were fairly bulky, but recently LEDs have made it possible to have a slim but very bright light surface slightly thicker than a cutting mat.

 

Visit Kate's blog to get her definition of Layer Cake and Length of Fabric.

Like what you see here, and want to hear more from Tamarinis?

Like me on Facebook, follow me on Instagram, and sign up for my newsletter at www.tamarinis.com!  PS - I'm trying to get to the next milestone number on Facebook and Instagram (I am trying to get 2000+ followers) and would REALLY appreciate your help - so please click and follow!  Thanks so much!

Following is one way to demonstrate your interest in my projects, patterns, and partnerships.  Your comments are also GREATLY appreciated, and provide valuable feedback regarding what inspires you, as well as what you'd like to see explored in future posts.  

And did you know?  I travel and teach!  Contact me to schedule a trunk show and/or workshop!

A Quilter's Alphabet - J and K

Just a few fun terms this time - knee lift and knots!

Knee Lift:

This handy dandy attachment to your sewing machine allows you to raise or lift your presser foot simply by pushing against the bar with....wait for it....your knee (hence the name!).  Many newer machines now have presser feet that raise automatically when you stop sewing, but some have the knee lift as an option.

Using a knee lift gives a sewer the opportunity to reposition or move their fabric (or quilt) with both hands and not lose control of what they are doing.

 

Knots:

Yes, these are knots created on purpose, not the accidental kind.  There are several different applications for knots in quilting:

• • Quilter's Knot:  A small knot tied at the end of a thread that is easy to "bury" (hide between the fabric and batting layer) and most commonly used in hand quilting or in tying off loose threads.
  • Knotted or Tied quilts: instead of quilting stitches, a length of thread or pearl cotton is used to secure the backing, batting and quilt top together.

Visit Kate's blog to get her definition of Jelly Roll and Knife Edge Finishes.

Like what you see here, and want to hear more from Tamarinis?

Like me on Facebook, follow me on Instagram, and sign up for my newsletter at www.tamarinis.com!  PS - I'm trying to get to the next milestone number on Facebook and Instagram (I am trying to get 2000+ followers) and would REALLY appreciate your help - so please click and follow!  Thanks so much!

Following is one way to demonstrate your interest in my projects, patterns, and partnerships.  Your comments are also GREATLY appreciated, and provide valuable feedback regarding what inspires you, as well as what you'd like to see explored in future posts.  

And did you know?  I travel and teach!  Contact me to schedule a trunk show and/or workshop!